Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétuel Jules Audemars

By Florian Matrion - September 30, 2010
Quantième Perpétuel Jules Audemars
Quantième Perpétuel Jules Audemars
Diaporama
The test of the Perpetual Calendar is a superb occasion to discover an Audemars Piguet's great complication, in the sometimes unknown range “Jules Audemars”. I have tested it for you!
Exclusive! review of the Quantième Perpétuel Jules Audemars. Manufacturer data, photos, editor's opinion and watch retail price on thewatchobserver.co.uk
Editor's opinion
80/100
Users' rating
82/100

Indeed, the Royal Oak should not be the model that distracts you from the other collections of the brand.
The tradition of complicated watches is old within Audemars Piguet and finds here a new declination.
Will it be able to catch the attention of the amateur fond of sports watches?

 

A poetic watch

First, here are the functions of this Perpetual Calendar: it informs on the time, the minutes, the day, the date, the month, the leap year cycle and the moon phases.

All of these is of course not essential on a daily basis and the skeptical would say that any new generation cell phone endowed with the appropriate application would provide the same informations.

But it would be forgetting the magic of the watch-making mechanic that reaches here a very high level and is close to love of art.
We are here talking about poetry, not rough information!

Well, I get a little carried away!

 

Not only the dial is well balanced, but above all clear, thanks to the systematic use of registers rather than (sometimes) unsightly apertures.

An instinctive reading of the information

When manipulating it, the readability of this calendar is almost instinctive.
An important fact to underline since the readability is not always the strong point of that kind of complication.
To be thorough, it is even understandable without reading the instructions, even by someone who has never manipulated a Perpetual Calendar!

 

A well-balanced dial

Not only the dial is well balanced, but above all clear, thanks to the systematic use of registers rather than (sometimes) unsightly apertures.

The leaves hands of the hours and the minutes could have nevertheless been bigger, in order to improve again the readability.

One regret also: the absence of seconds' hands that would allow an instant visibility of the watch's work.

 

A gorgeous manufactured finishing

Further than the craftsmanship and the complexity of such a mechanism – which counts 355 pieces on a 4 mm height – the quality of the finishing, the treatment of the surfaces and also the bevel of the pieces are magnificently realized.

The treatment of the gold framed oscillating weight, makes the monogram AP discreetly appears.

 

The treatment of the gold framed oscillating weight, makes the monogram AP discreetly appears.

An immediate comfort at wearing

The reasonable diameter of the curved box (41 mm), its slim thickness (9,26 mm), the shape of the lugs as well as the discreet push buttons contribute to the high lightness of the lines.
This lightness is possible thanks to the slim thickness of the caliber – compared to other Perpetual Calendars.

As a result: the comfort around the wrist is immediate.

The strap with curvy handles that extends the casing's lines as well as the polished folding clasp take part to this elegance.
As for the slightly rounded sapphire glass and the polished crown marked with a discreet AP logo.

 

A smart AND multitask watch

At last, the contrast of the flanks with the polished bezel gives multitask and nearly sports looks to this watch.
The stick markers enhance this impression.

It would not only be a “smart” watch, but a daily watch...

The use of the pink gold, more modern than the yellow gold, emphasizes this feeling.

 

Conclusion

The initial idea is confirmed: the Perpetual Calendar Jules Audemars has really come out from a hushed atmosphere to enter the working world.
Even if it remains an item of exception, it will not only seduce the aficionados of such complication.

Please notice that this Audemars Piguet is delivered within a magnificent mahogany box that also serves as watch winder.
You can thus leave it for a few days during your holidays in Bali, without fearing the watch stops...

 

The +:

  • a beautiful complication from a big manufacture
  • the comfort of the wearing
  • the quality of the realization of the whole
  • the multitask side of this smart watch

 

The –:

  • the absence of a seconds' hand
  • a nearly too discreet watch
  • a limited 40-hour power reserve
  • a watch that is (unfortunately) not reachable for every purse

 

Further information:

 

For other “dress watches”,  see also:

Slideshow
15 pictures to see this watch in all its angles
Click on one photo to enlarge the watch gallery
  • Quantième Perpétuel Jules Audemars
  • Quantième Perpétuel Jules Audemars
  • Quantième Perpétuel Jules Audemars
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  • Quantième Perpétuel Jules Audemars
  • Quantième Perpétuel Jules Audemars
  • Quantième Perpétuel Jules Audemars
  • Quantième Perpétuel Jules Audemars
  • Quantième Perpétuel Jules Audemars

Manufacturer data

Brand Audemars Piguet
Model name Quantième Perpétuel Jules Audemars
Reference number 26390OR.00D088CR.01
Case material Pink gold
Case diameter (without crown) 41 mm
Case diameter (crown included) 42 mm
Movement type Automatic
Calibre 2120/2802 ultra thin
Calibre base AP 2120
Functions Perpetual Calendar
Moon phases
Minute
Leap cycle
Hour
Date
Crystal Dual-face crystal with anti-reflective coating
Power reserve ability 40h
Transparent back Yes
Lug width 22,04 mm
Length from lug to lug 47,40 mm
Case thickness 9,26 mm
Water resistant 20 m
Strap material Alligator
Clasp type Deployment clasp
Clasp type Pink gold
Total weight 91 grammes
Retail price France at 2010/09/30 53,750.00 € calc

Editor's opinion 80/100

Confort (/15) 15
more Movement (/20) 16
Movement Optimisation / Garnishment (/5) 5
Ease of handling and adjustment (/5) 5
Movement control proceeded by the Manufacture / horlogical awards (/3) 2
Power reserve ability (/2) 0
Complications (/5) 4
more Finishing (/20) 19
Dial finishing (/6) 6
Case finishing (/6) 6
Quality of garnishment / caseback engraving quality (/2) 2
Crystal quality (/4) 3
Clasp finishing (inner and extern) (/2) 2
more Practicality (/20) 11
Diurnal legibility (/5) 4
Night legibility (/4) 0
Water resistant (/3) 0
Strap : ease of size adjustment + ease of substitution (/4) 3
Clasp : quality and safety (/4) 4
more Bonus (/10) 5
Limited edition (/3) 0
Watch delivered with several straps (/2) 0
Quality of the watch box (/1) 1
Portability with shirtsleeves buttoned (/2) 2
Goodies included (/1) 1
Understandability of the brochure (/1) 1
Value for money (/15) 14
When to wear it ?
Everywhere a man feels comfortable... but on the beach !

Users' rating 82/100

Confort (/15) 13.5
Movement (/20) 16.5
Finishing (/20) 17
Practicality (/20) 16
Bonus (/10) 8
Value for money (/15) 12
Rate this watch
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